notes from the table: le jardinier

bon appétit!

Is there a better way to kick off your weekend than eating French cuisine in a museum at noon on a Friday? While most of Houston is grabbing tacos from food trucks, I'm sitting in the light-flooded dining room of Le Jardinier, admiring the Rodin sculpture garden framed by the MFAH Contemporary Arts building's glass walls.

Everyone's been buzzing about this place since the Michelin star announcement, but here's what they're not telling you: Le Jardinier isn't trying to be the most French restaurant in Houston. It's trying to be the most Houston French restaurant, if that makes sense. And during Houston Restaurant Weeks, when you can experience this level of sophistication for $25 going towards a good cause? That's not just lunch, that's a no-brainer.

As we walked through the glass doors of the MFAH Contemporary Arts building, we caught a glimpse of the entire Le Jardinier team gathered for their pre-service meeting, a ballet of precision that hints at what's to come. The dining room itself is all natural light and soft palettes, the kind of space where you instinctively sit up straighter and try to actually use your fork and knife the right way.

We settled down at the bar, where we could lean over and watch the bartenders work their craft– shaking, stirring, and garnishing with the kind of precision you’d expect from a Michelin-starred operation. The cocktail menu was stunning, but sadly, it was the middle of the workday and my tastes aren’t quite European enough to justify wine with lunch (yet). Instead, we opted for mocktails that had just as much finesse. Next time, I’m absolutely diving into their impressive wine list– it is a French restaurant after all.

Le Jardinier is my first Michelin-starred experience, and I was delighted to observe the quiet organization and attention to detail that I expected from such a highly-commended fine dining space. The staff is polished, friendly, and ever-so-attentive. Even in a slightly embarrassing moment, a server came by between our courses with a small brush to sweep off our bread crumbs into a small tray. But it’s just that attention to detail that got them to Michelin star level.

Traditional French cooking was built on working with what you had– regional ingredients, seasonal availability, local techniques passed down through generations of mamans. But what happens when you transplant that philosophy to a place like Houston, where "seasonal" means "always hot" and our local ingredients include huitlacoche and Carolina Gold rice?

Le Jardinier's answer seems to be: embrace the contradiction. This isn't your grandmother's French bistro (unless your grandmother was really into Texas produce). Chef Felipe Botero is doing something I respect: honoring French technique while refusing to cosplay as a Parisian brasserie.

Le Jardinier rotates their ingredients seasonally, so while you may see the whipped burrata salad year-round, the paired accoutrements vary month-to-month. For a $10 add-on, we opted to share the summer version of the burrata. Served with local stone fruit, summer tomatoes, and pistachio gremolata– this is what happens when French technique meets H-E-B's produce section. Tastefully dotted basil oil reminds you that we are indeed dining in an arts museum! This is something I would eat every day and could make an honest attempt at in my own kitchen.

My friend and dining partner Sophie opted for the vegetarian option on the entree list, the Carolina Gold rice risotto. This is where the restaurant's Texas identity really shines. Huitlacoche (that Mexican corn fungus that looks terrible and tastes like umami heaven) paired with mimolette cheese and summer corn. Together, they create the kind of richness that feels almost too indulgent, but remember: you deserve it.

My last bite of the afternoon was the jasmine peach tart– and might I just say? Jasmine chantilly cream might be the most elegant way to eat summer I've encountered. Pastry Chef Tiffani Ann Gkarisa creates a perfectly poached peach half set on a bed of almond cream and surrounded by delicately piped jasmine chantilly. Completely gorgeous, but if I had to have one little gripe, it’s that the cracker shell was a little too tough to crack.

While I had to return to the office after our lunch outing, the second act of your dining experience at Le Jardinier should be to explore the MFAH Contemporary galleries. You're already there, and contemporary art pairs beautifully with contemporary French cuisine. Bon appétit!